The 14th century was an era of vibrant feasting and elaborate meals, where the kitchen became a stage for culinary creativity and expression. One recipe that captures the essence of medieval cooking is "Capon Stewed," a delightful dish that combines fresh herbs, wine, and spices to create a tender and flavorful bird. As a test recipe for my upcoming book on medieval feasting, Serve it Forth!, I decided to recreate this dish, honoring its original instructions while adapting it for the modern kitchen.
A Look at the Original Recipe
The recipe for "Capon Stewed" comes from a medieval manuscript that guides the cook through a series of steps to achieve a dish fit for a noble table. Here's the original text:
Take parcelly, Sauge, Isoppe, Rose Mary, and tyme and breke hit betwen thi hondes, and stop the Capon There-with; colour hym with Safferon, and couche him in an erthen potte, or of brasse, and ley splentes vnderneth and all abought the sides, that the Capon touche no thinge of the potte; strawe good herbes in ye potte, and put there-to a pottel of the best wyn that thou may gete, and none other licour; hele the potte with a close led, and stoppe hit abought with dogh or bater, that no eier come oute; And sette hit on ye faire charcole, and lete it seethe easly and longe till hit be ynowe. And if hit be an erthen potte, then set hit on the fyre whan thou takest hit downe, and let hit not touche the grounde for breking; And whan the ete is ouer past, take out the Capon with a prik; then make a sirippe of wyne, reysons of couranch, sugur and safferon, And boile hit a littull; medel pouder of ginger with a litul of ye same wyn, and do thereto; then do awey the fatte of the sewe of the Capon, And do the Siryppe to the sewe, and powre hit on the Capon, and serve it forth.
At first glance, the instructions may seem both charming and perplexing, a testament to how much culinary practices have evolved over the centuries. Let's break down this historical recipe and explore its key components.
Ingredients and Preparation: A Medieval Medley
The Aromatic Herbs: The recipe calls for a handful of fresh herbs: parsley, sage, hyssop, rosemary, and thyme. These herbs were staples in medieval kitchens, valued not just for their flavors but also for their medicinal properties. The instruction to "breke hit betwen thi hondes" (break it between your hands) releases the essential oils, infusing the capon with their fragrance.
Saffron and Wine: The capon is colored with saffron, a luxurious and prized spice in the medieval period, which imparts a golden hue and a subtle flavor. It is then placed in a pot with splints to ensure it doesn't touch the sides. A "pottel of the best wyn" (about two quarts) is added as the sole cooking liquid, emphasizing the importance of wine in medieval cooking, both for its flavor and its role in preservation.
The Cooking Vessel: The recipe specifies using an "erthen potte" (an earthenware pot) or one made of brass. This method ensures a gentle, even heat that simmers the capon slowly. The pot is sealed with dough or batter to prevent any air from escaping, creating a kind of medieval pressure cooker that keeps all the flavors contained.
The Syrup: Once the capon is cooked, a syrup is made with wine, currants (referred to as "reysons of couranch"), sugar, and saffron. Ginger is also added, providing a spicy counterpoint to the sweetness of the syrup. This sauce is then mixed with the juices from the capon and poured over the bird just before serving.
Recreating "Capon Stewed" in a Modern Kitchen
To adapt this recipe for contemporary cooks, some adjustments were necessary. Here's my modern interpretation of the medieval "Capon Stewed":
Ingredients:
1 whole capon (or a large chicken)
A handful each of fresh parsley, sage, hyssop (or substitute mint or oregano), rosemary, and thyme
1 teaspoon saffron threads
2 quarts (or 2 liters) of quality white wine
1 cup currants
3 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
Instructions:
Prepare the Capon:
Preheat your oven to 300°F (150°C). Rinse the capon and pat it dry. Roughly chop the herbs and rub them between your hands to release their oils. Stuff the capon with these herbs and rub the skin with saffron mixed with a little warm water to release its color.
Cook the Capon:
Place the capon on a rack inside a large, oven-safe pot to prevent it from touching the sides. Pour in the white wine, cover the pot with a lid, and seal the edges with aluminum foil or a dough mixture to keep the steam in. Cook in the preheated oven for 2-3 hours or until the meat is tender and fully cooked.
Prepare the Syrup:
In a saucepan, combine the remaining wine, currants, sugar, and saffron. Bring to a boil, then simmer gently until it thickens slightly. Add the ground ginger and stir well.
Finish and Serve:
Remove the capon from the pot and carefully pour off the juices. Skim the fat from the surface and mix the juices with the prepared syrup. Pour this over the capon and serve it warm, accompanied by rustic bread and a selection of roasted vegetables.
The Experience: Cooking and Tasting the Past
Recreating "Capon Stewed" was like stepping back in time, offering a hands-on connection to the kitchens of medieval Europe. The result was a dish that was richly aromatic, with the flavors of the herbs and spices melding beautifully with the wine and the tender capon. The sweetness of the syrup, balanced by the spice of the ginger, added a unique complexity to the dish that was both familiar and foreign to modern palates.
This recipe serves as a reminder of the ingenuity and creativity of medieval cooks, who worked with the ingredients they had on hand to create something truly special. The process of adapting such a historical recipe for the modern kitchen was an adventure in itself, revealing the timeless appeal of good food, lovingly prepared and shared.
Serving Forth a Taste of History
"Serve it Forth!" is more than just a collection of recipes; it is an exploration of culinary history, an invitation to experience the flavors, textures, and techniques that delighted diners centuries ago. "Capon Stewed" is a perfect example of how historical recipes can inspire and enrich our modern tables. So, why not take a page from the past and serve forth a taste of history in your next feast?
With every bite, we connect with those who dined before us, celebrating the art of cooking across the ages.
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